Best Low-Light Houseplants

Your North-Facing Window Gets About 100 Foot-Candles — Here's What Survives There

A north-facing window in a temperate climate typically delivers 50–150 foot-candles (fc) of ambient light. A spot 8 feet from a south window gets 200–300 fc. These numbers matter because most "low light" plants on sale at garden centers aren't actually low-light tolerant — they're tagged that way because they look acceptable in dim conditions for a few months before slowly declining.

True low-light tolerant plants can sustain healthy growth below 200 fc indefinitely. Here are 10 that genuinely earn the label, with the specific ranges that make them work.

Understanding Foot-Candles Before Buying

A quick primer so the numbers below make sense:

• Bright indirect light: 400–1,000 fc (2–5 feet from a south window)
• Medium light: 200–400 fc (north window in summer, 4–6 feet from east or west window)
• Low light: 50–200 fc (north window year-round, interior rooms)
• Very low light: Under 50 fc (hallways, interior offices) — almost nothing truly thrives here

To measure your space: a free lux meter app on your phone gives a rough reading. Divide lux by 10.76 to get foot-candles. A reading of 1,500 lux = 139 fc — genuinely low light.

The Top 10 Low-Light Houseplants

1. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) — 50–200 fc

The benchmark low-light plant. Pothos genuinely sustains itself at 75 fc — the kind of light found on a bookshelf 10 feet from a window. Growth slows significantly below 150 fc, but the plant stays healthy and doesn't drop leaves.

Best variety for low light: 'Marble Queen' loses its white variegation below 200 fc; stick with solid green 'Golden Pothos' or 'Jade' for the darkest spots. Variegated varieties need at least 150 fc to maintain their pattern.

Care note: Water every 10–14 days in medium light; every 18–21 days in very low light (the reduced photosynthesis means slower water uptake).

2. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) — 100–400 fc

ZZ plants store water in their thick rhizomes and can tolerate light levels down to about 75 fc — though below 150 fc, new growth essentially stops. What makes them uniquely suited to low light: they can survive weeks of reduced watering because of their built-in water storage.

Growth expectation at 100 fc: Expect 2–4 new leaflets per year. At 300 fc, you'll see 8–12. The difference is substantial.

One caveat: All parts of the ZZ plant are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep away from cats, dogs, and small children.

3. Snake Plant (Sansevieria) — 50–2,000 fc

Snake plants are among the widest-tolerance plants in existence. At 75 fc (very low light), they survive for years without decline — they just don't grow. For actual leaf production in a dim room, aim for at least 200 fc. The solid green varieties (like 'Zeylanica') handle low light better than variegated ones.

Watering in low light: At 100 fc, a 6-inch snake plant in a 6-inch pot may only need water every 35–45 days. The combination of low light and low growth rate means extremely slow water consumption.

4. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) — 100–400 fc

Peace lilies are one of the few flowering plants that bloom in genuinely low light. At 200 fc, expect 1–2 blooms per year. At 400 fc, you'll get more consistent flowering throughout spring and summer.

The drooping signal: Peace lilies communicate their watering needs dramatically — leaves droop visibly when dry. This makes overwatering less likely because you water when asked, not on a schedule. A drooping peace lily at 70°F usually needs water within the next 12–24 hours.

Light-bloom relationship: If your peace lily has been living in low light for 6+ months with no flowers, move it to 300 fc for 6–8 weeks to trigger blooming.

5. Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior) — 25–150 fc

Aptly named. The cast iron plant tolerates light levels as low as 25 fc — more than any other common houseplant. Victorian-era homes used them because they survived coal-gas-polluted indoor air and gas lamp light. In a modern home, they'll grow (slowly) under fluorescent office lighting with no windows.

Growth rate warning: At 100 fc, expect 2–4 new leaves per year. This is a plant for patience. The payoff is near-indestructibility.

6. Dracaena (Multiple species) — 100–400 fc

Dracaena marginata and Dracaena fragrans both adapt well to 150–200 fc. They won't thrive in extreme low light but can sustain healthy growth in north-facing rooms. The 'Janet Craig' variety (dark green strap leaves) is the most tolerant, surviving at 100 fc for extended periods.

Fluoride sensitivity: Dracaenas develop brown leaf tips when watered with fluoridated tap water. Use filtered or rainwater if your tap is fluoridated. This is especially noticeable in low-light conditions where the plant grows slowly and salt accumulation is faster.

7. Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) — 150–400 fc

One of the most forgiving foliage plants available. Dark green varieties like 'Silver Queen' and 'Maria' handle 150 fc well. Brightly colored varieties (pink, red, orange) require 400+ fc to maintain their coloring — don't buy a 'Red Valentine' for a dim room.

Practical north-window test: A solid green Chinese Evergreen 3 feet from a north window typically maintains good health year-round in USDA zones 4–8, where north window light dips to 75–100 fc in winter.

8. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) — 100–300 fc

Often confused with pothos, heartleaf philodendron has the same low-light tolerance but softer, darker green leaves. It performs well at 150 fc and can survive at 75 fc, making it another excellent north-window candidate.

Vs. pothos in low light: Philodendron tends to hold its deep green color better than golden pothos in very low light (pothos can become more uniformly green and lose its characteristic gold streaking below 100 fc).

9. Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) — 150–400 fc

The parlor palm is the most low-light-tolerant palm available. It originated in the understory of Mexican rainforests where light levels were naturally low. At 200 fc, it maintains attractive growth. Below 150 fc, growth slows but the plant stays healthy.

What to expect: At 200 fc, expect 2–4 new fronds per year. This is a slow grower even in ideal conditions — don't expect rapid development the way you might from a pothos.

10. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) — 150–400 fc, high humidity required

Boston ferns handle 150 fc but have a non-negotiable humidity requirement: 50–70% relative humidity. In dry indoor environments (typical homes in winter run 20–30% humidity), they'll drop fronds regardless of light. Pair with a humidifier or place on a pebble tray with water.

The bathroom solution: A bathroom with a frosted north window (150 fc, 55–65% humidity from showers) is actually a near-perfect Boston fern environment. Many plant owners report their best fern success in exactly this spot.

What "Low Light" Products Won't Tell You

Most grow lights marketed for "low light" plants output 500–1,500 fc at the recommended distance. This is actually medium to bright light — exactly what's needed if you want your low-light-tolerant plants to actually grow rather than merely survive. If you're supplementing a dark corner, a 20W LED grow light at 12 inches delivers approximately 400–600 fc — enough to push active growth in any plant on this list.

The distinction between "survives in low light" and "grows well in low light" matters when you're buying plants for a specific purpose. The 10 plants above genuinely survive below 200 fc. For real growth, pair them with a grow light or place them within 4 feet of any window.