A shiplap calculator estimates the number of boards and total linear footage needed to cover a wall or ceiling. Enter your dimensions, board width, and orientation to get an accurate material count — plus a visual wall preview and cost estimate.
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Material Breakdown
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Alternating shades show individual boards. Diagram is to scale.
How to Use the Shiplap Calculator
Shiplap is one of the most popular wall treatments for farmhouse and modern-rustic interiors. Getting the board count right before heading to the lumber yard saves money and avoids mid-project supply trips. This shiplap calculator does the math on boards, linear footage, and cost while showing you a visual wall preview.
Understanding Shiplap Board Dimensions
Standard shiplap is sold in nominal widths, but the actual face you see on the wall is smaller. A nominal 1×6 board has a 5.5-inch actual face width. With a 3/8-inch rabbet (overlap), the exposed face per board is approximately 5.125 inches. This means covering a 9-foot (108-inch) wall height with horizontal 1×6 shiplap requires: 108 ÷ 5.125 = 21 boards, not the 18 you might guess from nominal measurements.
Nickel-gap shiplap leaves a deliberate 1/16-inch gap between boards for a modern paneled look. This gap slightly reduces the effective coverage per board — a 5.5-inch board with nickel gap covers about 5.4375 inches, a small difference that becomes relevant on tall walls. The calculator accounts for whichever board width you select.
Step 1: Enter Wall Dimensions
Measure the width and height of your wall or ceiling in feet. For a wall with a window or door, measure the full wall and subtract openings after — most installers buy for the full wall and work around openings using cut-off pieces. Switch to metric if needed using the units toggle.
Step 2: Choose Board Width and Orientation
The most common shiplap profile is 5.5-inch face width (nominal 6-inch), which gives the classic horizontal-plank farmhouse look. Narrower 3.5-inch boards create a more traditional appearance with tighter lines. Nickel-gap (3-inch) leaves a small consistent reveal for a modern twist. Horizontal orientation is standard for walls; vertical can make ceilings feel higher.
Step 3: Calculating Waste Factor
Waste factor accounts for boards cut short at room edges, corners, and openings. Use these guidelines: 10% for simple rectangular walls with no openings; 15% for walls with windows, doors, or inside corners that require more cross-cuts; 20% for diagonal shiplap patterns where every board needs two angled cuts. For a ceiling installation add an extra 5% because boards must be cut on both ends to fit within the joists.
For a 12×9 ft wall (108 sq ft): at 10% waste, order 118.8 sq ft worth of boards — that is 23 standard 12-foot 1×6 boards. At 15% waste for a wall with two windows, order 124.2 sq ft, roughly 25 boards. Buying one or two extra boards is cheap insurance against a bad cut.
Shiplap vs. Tongue-and-Groove
Shiplap uses a rabbet cut on the board edge — a simple step profile that lets boards stack with a slight overlap. Tongue-and-groove boards have a protruding tongue on one edge and a matching groove on the other for a tighter, nearly seamless fit. Tongue-and-groove is preferred for ceilings because boards lock together and resist sagging over long spans. Shiplap installs faster and handles minor width variation better, making it more forgiving on walls where boards may not be perfectly straight.
Both profiles use the same material quantity calculation — the difference is in profile shape, not coverage area. The shiplap calculator works for tongue-and-groove as well; just enter the exposed face width of your specific board profile.
Installation Tips That Affect Material Quantity
Horizontal installation (the classic look) runs boards parallel to the floor. Start at the bottom and work up, which means the cut boards end up at the top where they are less visible. Vertical installation runs boards perpendicular to the floor, often creating a more modern look. For vertical, the cut boards are at each side wall — if those corners will be covered by trim, waste is lower than if they are exposed.
Gap spacing matters when calculating coverage. The calculator's board-width options already account for standard overlap and nickel-gap specs, but if you plan to leave a custom gap (say, 1/4-inch for a distinct look), you will need slightly more boards to cover the same wall area. Each 1/8-inch of additional gap reduces effective coverage per board by about 2.3% on a 5.5-inch face.
Step 4: Review Results and Cost
The shiplap calculator outputs total linear feet, number of standard 12-foot boards, and optional cost if you enter a price per linear foot (typically $1–$4 for pine, $3–$8 for reclaimed wood, $2–$6 for MDF shiplap). The wall preview diagram shows individual board rows at scale so you can visualize coverage before buying.
FAQ
What width are shiplap boards?
Standard shiplap boards have a face width of 3.5 inches (nominal 4-inch), 5.5 inches (nominal 6-inch), or 7.25 inches (nominal 8-inch). After the tongue and groove overlap, the exposed face is typically 3.5 or 5.5 inches.
How many square feet of shiplap per board?
A 12-foot board with 5.5-inch face covers 5.5 square feet. Multiply board face width in feet by board length to get square footage per board.
How much extra should I buy?
Buy 10% extra for standard installations, 15% for diagonal installations, and 20% for herringbone patterns. Always buy a bit extra for future repairs.
Do I need furring strips under shiplap?
If installing over drywall, no furring strips needed. If installing over studs directly, use 1×3 furring strips 16 inches on center to provide a nailing surface. Always check your local building code.
Is this calculator free?
Yes, completely free with no signup required.
How much shiplap do I need for one wall?
For a standard 12×9 ft accent wall using 5.5-inch shiplap boards with a 10% waste factor, you need approximately 23 standard 12-foot boards (about 276 linear feet). Measure your wall width × height to get square footage, then divide by the board face width in feet and add your waste percentage. Our calculator handles all this automatically.
What is the waste factor for shiplap installation?
Use 10% waste for a simple rectangular wall, 15% for walls with windows and doors that require extra cuts, and 20% for diagonal patterns where every board needs two angled cuts. Always buy a few extra boards — shiplap pricing varies by region and you may not find the same lot later.
Is shiplap cheaper than drywall?
Shiplap is typically 2–5x more expensive than drywall for material alone. Standard pine shiplap runs $1.50–$4 per linear foot vs. $0.50–$0.60 per sq ft for drywall. However, shiplap installs directly over existing drywall with no mudding or painting required, so the labor and finishing cost difference is smaller for accent walls compared to full room installations.
Can I install shiplap directly on studs?
Yes, shiplap can go directly on studs without drywall behind it. Use 1×3 horizontal furring strips at 16 inches on center to provide a nailing surface if your stud spacing is not consistent with your layout. In exterior or moisture-prone areas, install a vapor barrier before the shiplap. In most jurisdictions, a fire-code-rated drywall layer is required in occupied spaces — check your local building code.